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These same forests, ages
ago, are supposed to have sheltered the exiled Pandava
brothers, heroes of the epic Mahabharat. The dense forest
and difficult terrain of Sariska shielded them until they
reached the court at Viratnagar 66 km away and lived there
disguised as servants of the king. Only five boulders now
remain to testify to the presence of the five Pandavas and
their wife, Draupadi.
Though the material relics of that age are scarce, the whole
countryside is teeming with evidence of the presence of the
heroic brothers. Bhima, the strongest brother, smote his
scepter in the rock face of a cliff and created a passage
for them through a gorge deep in the sanctuary. This is the
place known as Pandupol, the most commonly visited spot
within the Sariska area. It was here also that Bhima, who
had acquired the strength of many thousand elephants by
drunk from the eight jars of the nagas, received a setback
to his inflated ego by Lord Hanuman. Hanuman lay across the
road disguised as an old monkey and challenged Bhima to lift
him when he was ordered to clear the way for the Pandavas to
pass. Bhima could not even move his tail and accepted
defeat. A temple here is dedicated to Hanuman in the human
form.
Tourists rarely return without a visit to this temple in
which the image is in a reclining position. Busloads of
devotees crowd the route on Tuesdays, the monkey god's known
weekday. On Wednesdays, the inhabitants of the sanctuary are
allowed a rest from the sight of human invaders and animals
are indeed most visible on these days.
In September each year, however, they almost disappear off
the track as hordes of worshippers from near and far,
descend on the place for the famous fair which offers the
startling spectacle of persons crawling lengthwise on the
road the entire 48 km distance from Alwar city. If one is
lucky to be present at the right time, the ear can be
treated to the fascinating narration of the folk epic, the
pandun ka kada, a Mewati version of the Mahabharata, sung by
a Muslim jogi for hours at a stretch.
At Bhartrihari, it is the group called Bhartrihari ke Jogi,
who dominate with their powerful music at the fair in
August. For hundreds of years, the place gave solace and
shelter to the legendary sage Bhartrihari, the author of
important Sanskrit works on nitishastra and epics. A
millennium later he is still greatly revered by the local
populace. A temple in the hilly area (35 km) of Sariska is
dedicated to this saint. For every night over a month, a
grand musical drama of seven hours in the style of Parsi
theatre is enacted and draws a massive audience. It narrates
the epic story of king Bhartrihari, renowned for his
justices.
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